ONE Little West 12
1 Little W. 12th St. at 9th Avenue NYC
After a long hiatus, Traveler Bill Industries is again in the business of restaurant reviews. My old friend and Interweb competitor (although to compare us is a slight against the far more established Hated-It.com) decided to catch up on each other’s goings-on, using the opportunity to conduct a Duel Review at an establishment roughly halfway between The Hermitage and Traveler Bill Towers.
(Click here for Old Hickory’s review)
One (located at One Little West Twelfth at 9th Avenue) is a high end joint that is meant to impress your date rather than your appetite. The attractive hostess seated us immediately in the cavernous dining room. Through a quirk of scheduling we were literally the only patrons in One for at least an hour. Despite it being convenient for my purposes it baffles me why they would bother to open that early at all as the AC cost alone must be astronomical.
Reviewing the uncluttered menu I decided to have the Caesar Hearts of Romaine to start and the Hanger Steak with Crispy Shallot, Herb Salad, Fries for an entrée and the Charcuterie Platter with Conichons and Dijon to split. Curiously, One refers to these respective courses as “FOR US”, “FOR ME”, and “FOR ALL”. For the ethical eaters out there: when our wafer theen waitress *** huskily informed us of the special, swordfish, she was unable to say if it was line caught
While waiting for the appetizer I decided to have the Brown Sugar Mint Julep, despite my Lost Weekend at the hands of that elixir. It was not nausea inducing, which, while not a typical plaudit, says a great deal. However, the horrible music coming from the DJ booth was. Maybe Traveler Bill is a remnant of a different era, I just can’t wrap my head around these kids with their clothes and their music.
The Caesar salad was interesting in the presentation. Crouton-less, the salad was accompanied by slices of parmesan cheese and toasts the dimension of a credit card. That said, the dressing was uninspired, and may very well have been out of a bottle. The Charcuterie platter consisted of Prosciuto de Parma, Salami, Pancetta, (or Mortadella we couldn’t tell) Pepperoni and Duck Bacon (again, we think). The inclusion of this platter was very welcome. The spiciness of the cured meats and mustard, while not Mint Julep friendly, balanced out the blandness of the salad.
As I tucked away the Charcuteri, I decided to order some wine for the main course. No expert at chosing a wine, I asked *** for a suggestion and she recommended the Beringer Napa Valley Merlot to accompany the Hanger Steak.
Before the entrée arrived, the pretty hostess brought in the second table of patrons. I wonder if the person who sat in the seat that corresponded with mine was as uncomfortable as I. Circling the room is very low profile seating. Half the seats are quasi-club chairs and the other: sofa-esque seating. I was fortunate enough to sit on the couch, straddling a seam. Adding to their butt-wrenching charm was the fact that no back support was available.
But then the steak arrived. The monstrous pile of fries bisecting the plate dominated the display. Almost lost, the salad with fried shallots was my favorite part of the meal. Dressed simply with vinegar I found it a refreshing accoutrement. The fries, in addition to their quantity, had quality as well. Fried perfectly, they required no additional seasoning, and only occasionally did I even use the handy dish of catsup that was provided. But it is here that my enjoyment in the meal dropped precipitously. The steak was admittedly ably cooked. However, the brain trust in the kitchen insisted upon slathering my steak in what I can only describe as a super sweet teriyaki sauce. A good wine could have salvaged this meal….
The meal was not savaged. Our waitress *** put the smelly in sommelier. Ok it’s not all that clever, but you get the point. The wine was entirely unsuited for the entrée which was the only part of the meal it accompanied. I don’t mind dropping $40 on a bottle of wine in a restaurant. I do, however, mind dropping $40 on an $8 bottle of wine.
I can’t in all good conscience recommend this restaurant for people looking for a decent meal. One is a place in which to be seen. The food is, in my opinion, merely the ends to justify the scene.