In an attempt to maintain my schedule of posting 12 restaurant reviews in 12 months I am taking the extremely dodgy step of dipping into the Travel-Erchives and posting a review that appeared on the original version of TravelerBill.com.
Reviewed Date: October 14, 2005 – The Mermaid Inn, No. 96 2nd Avenue Between 5th & 6th Street – (212) 674-5870
I came across The Mermaid Inn during my walk around the East Village last week that ended in my previous review. I would’ve eaten there then if not for the fact they only serve dinner. Split into two rooms, the décor is reminiscent of a mid-level New England seafood restaurant, evoking memories of family vacations on Cape Cod. The menu was refreshingly limited easily fitting on one page. The absence of a specials board was not distressing at all and only noticed about halfway through the meal.
My waitress that night, “Betsy C.” according to the check, along with the rest of the NYU/Bohemian wait staff was friendly, attentive and helpful. When asked, Betsy had a fine wine suggestion. The Muscadet de Severe et Maine – Hubert Rousseau (Loire) a crisp, fruity white wine that accompanied both my appetizer and entrée quite well.
The bread came promptly before I had a chance to even wonder where it was. Thick sesame breadsticks and “everything” matzo crackers served nicely in a white ceramic flower pot. A small ramekin of Sweet cream butter was a nice touch as well.
The appetizer I selected was the Rock Shrimp and Corn Fritters with a tomato caper remoulade. A generous portion; the batter of the fritters had an egg-y quality I hadn’t expected. The only way to describe it is think of the fish and chip platter at a restaurant that has no right to serve “authentic” English Fish and Chips. Nevertheless it was quite tasty; the consistency so vile at a Greek diner was sublime when surrounding the rock shrimp and corn. The sauce had a slight tang of the tomato which dovetailed nicely with subtle brininess of the capers.
The entree I selected, and the dish that reeled me in on the menu was the Lobster Sandwich on griddled bun with Old Bay Fries. The lobster was a simple salad of lobster meat, mayonnaise, salt pepper and a little bit of parsley for color. The salad was served on a grilled brioche roll. As one who fondly remembers the Lobster Roll at any of the nameless shacks along the shores of New England I was surprised when the portion of lobster salad was not the giant pile of food that the overfed American typically receives. This was not unwelcome. The Old Bay Fries were merely shoestring fries dusted with Old Bay Seasoning, I’ll admit, I didn’t see that coming.
The lack of a dessert menu, while normally deplorable, was rescued by the fact that I, along with everyone else, received a demitasse cup of chocolate pudding. A gentile sufficiency that ended the meal perfectly. The coffee was served with old time sugar cubes, a nice touch.
I’m glad that I made the trip back and am very pleased to award The Mermaid Inn Three Traggi.
The Mermaid Inn accepts major credit cards, but does not accept reservations.
UPDATE: The Mermaid Inn is still in existence although now the original on 2nd Ave is now joined by a second location at 568 Amsterdam Ave. Sadly the appetizer I had no longer appears on the menu, but the sandwich abides.